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Project Summary

Difficulty  6  –  8 
Time required Average (about one week)
Prerequisites You'll need a camera with a separate flash attachment to do this project.
Material Availability Readily available
Cost Very Low (under $20)
Safety Be careful in sunlight: the Fresnel lens used in this project can focus enough sunlight to cause burns, melt your flash attachment, or set fires.

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Objective

The goal of this project is to build and test a flash extender for a camera's flash attachment using a Fresnel lens. How far will you be able to extend the range of your flash?

Introduction

photo of flash focuser
 A Fresnel lens flash focuser (Wayne Schmidt)

Electronic flashes for cameras use a xenon flashlamp to create a brief, brilliant illumination of your subject. Because the duration of the flash is so brief (perhaps as short as 1/31,000 of a second at the lowest manual power setting), the flash can 'freeze' motion. Sometimes, though, using the lowest power setting may require you to open up the lens aperture too much, limiting the depth of focus of your shot more than you would like.

For example, consider the problem of trying to capture a hummingbird in flight on film: "Shooting hummingbirds is tough. To stop their wings takes a flash duration of 1/12,000 of a second or less. When you're very close to them and stopped down to F18 to get enough depth of field for the entire bird to be in focus, you need all the light you can get. Unfortunately, even zoomed out to their maximum focal length flashes have typical beam spreads of 45 degrees. That means the light you want focused on a one square foot area is being spread over 50 or 60 square feet. Your only options are to push the ISO up (which causes graininess and red artifacts), open the aperture (reducing the depth or field), or slow the flash down to get enough light for a proper exposure (which gives you blurred wings.) Fortunately, there's a cheap and easy solution: a beam focuser." (Schmidt, date unknown)

The inverse square law describes the geometrical fact that light intensity decreases as the square of the distance from the source (Figure 2).

diagram illustrating the inverse square law
Figure 2. The diagram above illustrates the inverse square law. As light from a point source radiates out into space, the area illuminated increases as the square of the distance and the intensity of the light decreases as the square of the distance.

By focusing the light into a smaller area, the flash extender will allow you to take photographs with smaller apertures and shorter flash durations. The drawback is that the light will be concentrated towards the center of the frame The focus extender is not a good idea for lighting group photos, for example.

In this project, you will build a flash focus extender to concentrate the light from your flash into a smaller area. You'll take photographs over a range of apertures and flash durations to test how well the focus extender illuminates an object at the center of the camera's field of view.

Terms, Concepts and Questions to Start Background Research

To do this project, you should do research that enables you to understand the following terms and concepts:

Questions

Bibliography

Materials and Equipment

To do this experiment you will need the following materials and equipment:

Experimental Procedure

Making the Flash Focuser

Safety Note: Be careful in sunlight. The Fresnel lens used in this project can focus enough sunlight to cause burns, melt your flash attachment, or set fires.

Making the flash focuser is quite simple. Refer to the photograph (Schmidt, date unknown) and follow the instructions below.

    Fresnel lens flash focuser

  1. Cut strips of foam core material, about 2.5 cm wide, to make a frame to fit around your Fresnel lens.
  2. Tip: if you bevel cut the ends of these strips at a 45° angle, it will help position the strips when you assemble the frame.
  3. Tape the frame pieces together, and tape the Fresnel lens to the frame.
  4. The only tricky part is to determine the optimal distance from the flash for mounting the Fresnel lens. You want the beam from the flash to be focused almost to its tightest point, but not quite. (If it is focused perfectly, then the image of the diffuser lens on the front of the flash will be in focus, and the light from the flash may not be uniform.)
  5. For a Canon 580EX flash, a distance of 23 cm (9") worked perfectly (Schmidt, date unknown).
  6. Once you have figured out the correct distance, cut the two side pieces from the foam core material.
  7. Tape the wide end of the side pieces firmly to the Fresnel lens frame.
  8. Tape the narrow end of the side pieces firmly to the flash body.

Testing the Flash Focuser

  1. If you have a tripod for the camera, use it.
  2. Select a test object to focus. It should be about the size of your hand. In fact, if you have a helper, you can use their hand.
  3. Position the test object about 5–6 feet from the camera. Angle the object slightly away from the camera so that the image will have some depth (for testing depth of focus). Make measurements and take notes so that you can reproduce the setup in case you need to take more pictures later.
  4. You will take a series of pictures with different lens aperture/flash power combinations. In your lab notebook, record the shutter speed (same for all shots), lens aperture, and flash setting you use for each shot.
  5. Use your camera's manual mode to set the shutter speed and lens aperture.
    • Choose the highest shutter speed that will synchronize with the flash (usually 1/60 or 1/100 s). You will keep the shutter speed constant.
    • Start with the lens stopped down to the smallest aperture.
  6. With your flash in manual mode, set it to the lowest flash power (1/16 or 1/64). Take a picture.
  7. Increase the flash power in steps, taking a picture each time.
  8. When you have gone through all the flash power settings, open the lens aperture one stop, set the flash back to the lowest power, and take another set of pictures.
  9. Repeat the test without the flash focuser.
  10. Remember to record the settings used for each picture in your notebook!
  11. Use the exact same process to produce the images for comparison. If you use a digital camera, use the same software settings when preparing pictures for printing. If you use a film camera, have all of the pictures developed and printed with identical processing.
  12. Compare the images side-by-side for:
    1. exposure (does the main subject have sufficient lighting?),
    2. depth of focus (how much of the main subject is in sharp focus?),
    3. uniformity of lighting (how much of the entire frame is well-illuminated?).
  13. From your comparisons, determine which flash power settings produced the best pictures both with and without the flash focuser.

Variations

Credits

Andrew Olson, Ph.D., Science Buddies

Sources


Last edit date: 2007-01-05 12:00:00




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