Science Buddies: "Ask an Expert"

Why does water depth effect wave velocity ?

Hi,

I am not sure about the answer to your question. I asked to have your question moved to the physical science forum so someone with more expertise in physics can have a look for you.

Have a nice day, and sorry for the delay,
Tonya

Hello M.Bzikot,

Calculating the propagation of an ocean wave is a complex, at-least-college-level problem. A web search will give you several sites that discuss the problem and give you results of the calculations. For example, http://www.seafriends.org.nz/oceano/waves.htm.

To give a quick, verbal answer to why water depth affects wave height, speed, etc. you have to consider that the water in a wave moves not just at the surface, but the wave produces water movement to great depth. As the water becomes shallow, the motion of the water is constrained by the fixed bottom, and thus the motion changes.

If you develop more questions related to a science project based on this first question, get back to us with those.

Good luck, WW