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Wave Velocity
Moderators: AmyCowen, kgudger, bfinio, MadelineB, Moderators
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M.Bzikot
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Wed Mar 14, 2012 6:57 pm
- Occupation: Student 7th grade
- Project Question: Why does water depth effect wave velocity ?
- Project Due Date: March 30th, 2012
- Project Status: I am finished with my experiment and analyzing the data
Wave Velocity
Why does water depth effect wave velocity ?
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sunmoonstars
- Expert
- Posts: 424
- Joined: Fri Dec 12, 2008 3:47 pm
- Occupation: Platform Manager - Biologics
- Project Question: n/a
- Project Due Date: n/a
- Project Status: Not applicable
Re: Wave Velocity
Hi,
I am not sure about the answer to your question. I asked to have your question moved to the physical science forum so someone with more expertise in physics can have a look for you.
Have a nice day, and sorry for the delay,
Tonya
I am not sure about the answer to your question. I asked to have your question moved to the physical science forum so someone with more expertise in physics can have a look for you.
Have a nice day, and sorry for the delay,
Tonya
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deleted-71882
- Former Expert
- Posts: 338
- Joined: Sun Jul 10, 2011 5:48 pm
- Occupation: retired physicist
- Project Question: n/a
- Project Due Date: n/a
- Project Status: Not applicable
Re: Wave Velocity
Hello M.Bzikot,
Calculating the propagation of an ocean wave is a complex, at-least-college-level problem. A web search will give you several sites that discuss the problem and give you results of the calculations. For example, http://www.seafriends.org.nz/oceano/waves.htm.
To give a quick, verbal answer to why water depth affects wave height, speed, etc. you have to consider that the water in a wave moves not just at the surface, but the wave produces water movement to great depth. As the water becomes shallow, the motion of the water is constrained by the fixed bottom, and thus the motion changes.
If you develop more questions related to a science project based on this first question, get back to us with those.
Good luck, WW
Calculating the propagation of an ocean wave is a complex, at-least-college-level problem. A web search will give you several sites that discuss the problem and give you results of the calculations. For example, http://www.seafriends.org.nz/oceano/waves.htm.
To give a quick, verbal answer to why water depth affects wave height, speed, etc. you have to consider that the water in a wave moves not just at the surface, but the wave produces water movement to great depth. As the water becomes shallow, the motion of the water is constrained by the fixed bottom, and thus the motion changes.
If you develop more questions related to a science project based on this first question, get back to us with those.
Good luck, WW